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cold chicken at midnight

by Mel Bourne

I grew up having some doubts about the propaganda doled out by my solicitous, well meaning mother. Her perennial dictum stated that all of those odious vegetables like Brussels sprouts, turnips, and cauliflower made us healthy. The rule was immutable: if it tasted bad, it was good for you and we lived with the guilt of the reverse of that silly maxim.

For those golden Saturday lunches, before we headed off to the movies, we would generally have a three decker club sandwich, for which my mom was justly proud. The secret ingredient was the smoky thick sliced bacon. When we were given the liberty of eating lunch at the neighborhood sandwich shop on our way to the matinee, we were invariably tempted by the beguiling aroma of those wonderfully subversive hamburgers and hot dogs. I was always told to choose wholesome, no taste food, but my fragile willpower would forsake me once I got a whiff of that spicy perfume wafting off the greasy grill. I would surrender to my unholy taste buds and have half of the first movie ruined fighting off my overwhelmingly sinful ways. I betrayed my mother's rule for those delicious unhealthy tastes and to this day that vice makes me feel guilty whenever I have a hamburger or frank. I think that's why I love them so much.

Actually, my mother was a good cook, and a superb baker whose only drawbacks were overcooking meat and destroying fish. She was born on the lower east side in New York City, but her culinary inheritance came from her family who emigrated from Vienna.

When I got home from school on Friday afternoons, the myriad delectable scents coming from the kitchen filled me with a drooling anticipation for the evening desert. The favored place for our scout patrol meetings was always at our house where we were treated to velvety hot chocolate served up with mounds of scrumptious, feather light pastries, smothered with gobs of schlag, (whipped cream). Deserts at our house were never considered first rate unless they were hidden under those delicious white clouds of pure cholesterol.

On three our of four Friday nights, we ate some form of poultry. My favorite was just roast chicken. Any two cooks might use the same basic ingredients, but its usually is the little obscure departures that come from years of experimentation that make for a winner that one would never wish to change. I remember joining my mother at the market where the chicken was killed the day it was cooked. Whenever mom knew I was coming home for a weekend visit, there would always be a cooked bird in the fridge waiting to be devoured in the middle of the night.

About Mel: Mel is a motion picture production designer who resides in New York.

 

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