Unless you’re either Cajun or spent time in the Delta and bayou country of Louisiana, the lyrics to ole’ Hank’s song may not carry much meaning. But, it has special meaning to anyone who's been to New Orleans or to Louisiana. Les Paroisses Acadiennes, a.k.a Cajun country! It’s a nostalgic land full of happy people who speak in a distinct French dialect, who play and dance (fais do do) to an infectious brand of music (Cajun and Zydeco), who travel the bayous and swamps in pirogues (dugout canoes), who prepare the best and most unique regional cuisine in America, and whose “joie de vivre” (Joy of Life) attitude of “laissez les bontemps rouler” (let the good times roll) shines 365 days a year. Come down to the Breaux Bridge, Louisiana Crawfish Festival in May and you’ll find out just exactly what I’m talking about.
Most people associate Cajuns with New Orleans, or N’awlins, or the Vieux Carre (French Quarter - in New Orleans) and they live in ignorant bliss. Hearing the phrase, “Hey dawlin’, where ya’ at”, uttered along New Orleans' Bourbon Street does not necessarily imply you’ve met an authentic Cajun. So, exactly who are the Cajuns? Where did they come from and why did they settle in Louisiana?
A short history lesson before cooking, if you will. First, the term “Cajun” is a derivative of the word “Acadian”. Around 1632, commoners from the French regions of Poitou and Loudunais assumedly immigrated to the region of Acadia in Nova Scotia and settled near Port Royal. They inhabited the region through the early stages of the French and Indian War when the British captured most of the area by 1755. The British demanded the Acadians take an oath to King George. Of course, they refused. They’d rather swear at Georgie Boy rather than swear to him! So, between 1755 and 1758, the British began to exile the Acadians.
Moving southward in their exile, the Acadian people began to arrive by boat in Louisiana from 1765 to 1788 while many others followed, arriving in Louisiana well into the 18th century. As time passed the Acadians became the prevalent culture in the predominant area of south Louisiana settling in places like Abbeville, Lafayette, Erath, Eunice, St. Martinville, Bayou LaFourche, Houma, New Iberia, Jennings, and Thibodeaux to name a few. Absorbing other influences from the German, Spanish, French, English, and Indian inhabitants produced the Cajun ethnology, as it’s known today. This cultural blending is the main reason why Cajun cooking is so diverse, appealing, and just plain, downright delicious! I could write forever about Cajun cooking because I haven’t met an étouffée or jambalaya, yet, that I didn’t like. But, Gumbo has a uniqueness all its own and has become a favorite Cajun staple.
Cooking Gumbo
Tell me you're cooking Gumbo and I begin to whimper and babble in français acadien (which French)!. The word Gumbo MAY have been derived from the African word Gombo that means “Okra”. This is a derivation that is apropos since okra should probably be designated as the “Official Flower” of every state in the South. The origin of the word 'gumbo' is disputed, however. Some sources say it derives from the Choctaw word kombo which means sassafras. Whatever the source, gumbo is based on the French soup Bouillabaisse, a soup which many believe cannot be translated from one place to another due to the seafood in local waters. Gumbo uses okra and often uses file powder which comes from sassafras. The name confusion and the variety of ingredients reflects New Orleans multiethnic population, and the free adaptation from all ethnic groups that has made Louisiana in general and New Orleans in particular the seat of one of the few great indigenous cuisines in the US.
When it comes to New Orleans cooking, there isn’t just “one” version of Gumbo, but one for every citizen of New Orleans who likes cooking. Like spaghetti sauce, a Gumbo recipe is the sole property of whoever happens to be cooking. It’s never prepared the same way twice and every cook south of the Mason Dixon line has his or hers own variation. My own concoction is Seafood Gumbo Ya Ya and is laden with Crawfish tails, Crabmeat, Andouille sausage, and Okra among other things. The Cajun term Ya Ya means “everything or everyone joins together."
Thus, from this hodgepodge of everything joining together, great cooking and a great Gumbo is born! For starters, Gumbo is best cooked in a cast iron pot. If you don’t have one and are serious about cooking authentic Gumbo, I urge you to go get one! You won’t regret it and that cast iron pot can be used for other dishes, too. In this cast iron pot, you assemble ingredients that are as diverse as the individual instruments and musicians in the Cajun band, Beausoleil. As with music, everything begins with a composition.
The All-Important Roux: the Basis of Gumbo
For Gumbo, the composition begins with the roux (literal French for “reddish brown”). No roux, no Gumbo! It’s that simple. Roux is a mixture of flour and fat used to thicken sauces. The fat can be oil or butter. For Gumbo, oil is best (my wife recommends Peanut oil) and you want to make a “dark” roux though light and medium colored roux are suitable for other dishes. Making a good roux takes practice because many burn the roux in their initial attempts (black specks in roux give you a grade of “F”). But, if it does turns out right the first time, then, obviously, you have some Cajun somewhere in your pedigree! The ratio of flour to oil is usually 1:1, although, a little extra flour is preferable. You cook it on high heat and whisk the dickens out of it while constantly…. and I mean, constantly! Before you begin to make your roux, be sure the phone is off the hook, the TV is off, and you’ve gone potty. Now, a dark roux will take you 20+ minutes or so to cook. And, it gets hot with a capital “H”. So be careful. Spattered roux touching the skin will leave you with a permanent “culinary battle scar” I can assure you; and if you plunge ahead and do burn yourself, use it to your advantage and tell your grandchildren it’s a result of you heroic exploits during the “war”!
But realistically, if you find these precautions give you an apprehensive feeling that roux-making is too difficult, I have my “Yankee cheat sheet” for you. Prepared roux is available in abundance, so, check your local grocery stores or the internet.You can also find many Cajun and Creole seasonings such as Filé powder that is an absolute essential in Gumbo. With the roux dilemma solved (whew!!), you can begin to amaze family and friends with your own “personal” Gumbo creation.
Gumbo Ingredients: The Essentials
Crawfish and Crabmeat for Gumbo
Next, we need to address other Gumbo ingredients. First, let’s talk seafood. I use Crawfish tails and nothing else; not only because “mudbugs” are as plentiful down here as peanuts and the fat in their little shells adds flavor to the Gumbo, but also, to do otherwise would be a sacrilege against my Cajun cooking “religion”. We live a privileged life down here, so, if crawfish tails aren’t available in your area (pity on y’all), shelled and deveined fresh shrimp are an excellent substitute. However, if you insist on being a “purist” like me, but happen to live north of Richmond, fresh, frozen crawfish tail meat can come to the rescue. One word of caution, however! When precious Louisiana, New Orleans icons arrive, either make the Gumbo immediately or freeze them. DO NOT put them in the refrigerator with cavalier procrastination. Crawfish meat spoils quickly and your family will avoid the ‘fridge as if you made a fresh batch your grandmother’s recipe for Ecoli bacteria!
Now, for crabmeat, I use fresh claws and legs. Again, check your local markets. Crab, though expensive, is usually available everywhere.
Andouille Sausage for Gumbo
The same can be said for Andouille sausage. Andouille is a spicy, smoked pork Cajun sausage that is so engrained in our cooking that we couldn’t think of using anything else, cetainly not in a good gumbo. In fact, most reputable sausage producing companies nationwide have made it a standard item or purchase. An alternative, however, if you absolutely can’t find Andouille, is to use any good, smoked pork sausage. But again, if you want to be a purist, Andouille is available in abundance on many Internet sites.
With all this said, it’s time for you to assemble your “Cajun band” of Gumbo ingredients and let the cooking begin! My suggestion to the novice Gumbo cook is to experiment. Make Gumbo, then make Gumbo again. Vary the ingredients until you please yorself. You won't have to move to New Orleans, not to any part of Louisiana to be a great Gumbo cook. There there are marvelous books encompassing all of Cajun cooking, not just gumbo, for you to read. I highly recommend the works of the renowned chef, Paul Prudhomme, those of the late, great Cajun folklorist, humorist, and cook, Justin Wilson and of the contemporary Chef John Besh whose recent work is lyrical about New Orleans. The New Orleans Cookbook by John Besh
Speaking of reading, I once read an article that had nothing to do with Cajun cooking, but Gumbo did come to mind as I read it. The subject was how aromatherapy related to aphrodisiacs. I know nothing of aromatherapy, but, I do know aromas and the smell of an authentic, Cajun Gumbo does possess aphrodisiac qualities! The nose knows, ya’ll. Get cooking: make gumbo tonight. |
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