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an orchard of pears, plums, pistachios & the queen of all - quince

by Margaret E. Walker


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At Lacewood we had an orchard. The orchard was in two parts; one by the house and the other back from the chicken run. My husband and I considered that we had been given an almost sacred trust, to care for and nurture these fruit trees, all 275 of them. It was wonderful walking through the orchard just after the weeds had been slashed, smelling the freshly cut grass, especially in the early morning with the dew still on the ground, or in the late afternoon with the birds all roosting in the hawthorn hedge that bordered the orchard. Little did we know what a problem those twittering birds would be during our first harvest. When the first fat buds burst that spring and blossomed into clouds of pink and white, we were awestruck with the beauty of the whole thing. We would walk up and down the rows marveling at the whole creation, and speculating on the size of the developing crop.

There were six rows of apricots, two rows of citrus and a mixed row of nashi pears, nectarines and pistachios in one orchard, whilst the other end consisted of mostly plums, peaches, peacharines and a couple of pears. When we first arrived we had to pull out and burn some dead trees, then get the dripper system up to scratch. Choices then had to be made as to the type of fruit trees we would buy to fill the gaps. We chose three quince trees from the local tree nursery to be the first we planted. The nurseryman told us they were Pineapple Quince. Brian planted them with care, and, following the advice we had been given, we tied the side branches down with old stockings to encourage the tree to grow with the branches hanging down. This made for easier picking.

Our first season's quince were only very few, but in their second year of fruiting we had a marvelous crop of huge, pale yellow perfumed quinces, with flesh as soft as butter. They were huge and succulent, perfect for baking, stewing, making jam or jelly.

My grandma, Agnes, had two recipes in her handwritten book for quince, one for jam and one for jelly, so I decided on Quince Jelly, it being a favourite of mine, especially with whipped cream. The quinces were so easy to clean; just a wipe with a damp cloth removed the soft down covering the pale lemon outer skin. Then they went into the pot to be covered with rain water. Boiling for several hours brought out the beautiful deep rose colour of the quince.

The recipe said to lift out the fruit and drain through a colander, adding the syrup to that remaining in the pot, and then discarding the fruit. Having been taught well by a frugal mother, I could not bring myself to throw away the fruit pulp; instead I passed it through a mouli mill, added some sugar, vinegar and chili, and made some great Quince and Chili Sauce.

I also found that Baked Quince was a wonderful dessert. Following the advice of a friend of mine, I placed the wiped, quartered and cored fruit in a large lidded baking dish with sugar, water and a knob of butter, then into the oven on 100 degrees C all night. In the morning the kitchen was full of the wonderful aroma of baked, deep red quince - ready to be served with cereal and cream.

Quince paste can also be made with the discarded pulp. Simply weigh the pulp after passing it through a sieve to remove seeds, skins etc. and add an equal amount of sugar. Stir over a low heat until the sugar is dissolved and the quince is reduced to a thick paste, and turns a deep red colour. When it cannot be reduced further without catching on the bottom of the pan, turn it into plastic containers with lids. Store in the refrigerator and serve with cheese, ham or pork. It can also be warmed to serve with a roast. Delicious! Delicious!

 

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Editors note: We thank Margaret for this article, and for her respect for tradition. Please click to read about her grandmother Agnes Williams.

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Editor's Note: Margaret is a regular contributor and one of our favorite people. We hope you'll read her articles, and enjoy getting to know this multi-faceted woman as we have. She is from Australia, and her articles tell us that whatever is different from one continent to the next, we are all the same. Thank you, Margaret, for such thoughtful contributions.Margaret E. Walker is a regular contributor - click for Margaret's kitchen down under

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