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by Cliff Lowe

The very first 'job' I had was when I was about 5 years old. A friend of the family owned a truck farm (no, he didn't grow trucks) and sold various kinds of produce such as onions, lettuce, potatoes, pumpkins, peaches, apples, blackberries, raspberries, and that most wonderful of all berries, the ubiquitous strawberry.

I put the word 'job' in parentheses because what happened was my parents stopped by to visit the owner, a fellow named Adam, and he gave me one of the picker's baskets and sent me out into the field to pick along with the regular hired hands. Well, I was in hog heaven! I felt like a little man, out there amongst the other hired hands, squatting on my haunches and picking these huge, red, luscious, and aromatic berries.

They were a variety called 'Tennessee Beauties' and just one huge berry was as big around as my grubby little five-year old fist. That didn't deter me, however, and I picked a few quarts, not counting the quart that I ate as I picked. Imagine my surprise and joy when I finally returned to the barn with my basket filled with berries and received a whole five dollars for my time. Imagine: five dollars and all the strawberries I could eat? Was ever a kid happier? Possibly, but I do know I felt the flush of pride and accomplishment only a child can feel. And, as Mother's Day was coming that weekend, I took my hard-earned money and bought my mom a dozen roses (try doing that for five bucks now!) That tradition continued the rest of her life although she and I didn't always have the best of relationships.

Since that time, strawberries have been special to me. The very best ones, I remember, were the little wild ones that grew in the fields, cemeteries, and alongside the railroad tracks in the area of Kentucky where I grew up. The plants pushed through the ground in mid-to-late May and in a couple of weeks were full of little, delicate white blooms, each of which was destined to become a strawberry. By mid June the plants were heavy with the little, thumb-sized, red packets of heavenly delight and we picked all we could find. There was Strawberry Shortcake with whipped cream, and Strawberry Jam for the winter. We also made Strawberry pie and Strawberry Syrup for pancakes, and . . . joys of joys! . . . that wonderful concoction called homemade Strawberry Ice Cream created from pure cream, sugar, and wild strawberries.

Old-Fashioned Strawberry Ice Cream

A lot of elbow grease was mixed in, too, because electric ice cream makers didn't exist in our world. We used ice packed (and salted) ice cream freezers operated with a hand crank. The ice cream mixture was poured into a large metal canister, fitted with a tight lid, and placed into the center of the maker. Then a layer of ice was placed around the canister, followed by a layer of rock salt, and this was repeated until the ice and salt came to just about ½ inch below the sides of the wooden bucket in which the canister sat. The lid of the canister fitted into a gear assembly connected to the crank handle of the ice cream maker. Then the work began.

As you turned the crank, two things happened: the canister rotated within the ice-salt mixture while, simultaneously, a large beater paddle inside the canister moved and stirred the cream mixture to ensure a smooth ice cream, free of ice crystals. The job of cranking the ice cream usually fell to us kids and at first it was relatively easy. But as the ice cream mixture began to 'set'(i.e., freeze) it became progressively harder and harder to turn the crank. Finally, it would become too strenuous for kids and an adult would take over and continue turning the crank until, at last, it became impossible to turn. At that point, more ice and salt was added to the bucket around the sides of the canister, plain ice was heaped atop the canister and the whole thing placed in a cool, shady spot and covered with heavy canvas or cloth to allow the ice cream to 'age.' Aging allows the ice cream to set to its final firmness and to fully develop the flavor.

Today, we would simply use an electric ice cream maker and, when the machine stopped, place the canister in the freezer to age. For maximum flavor, ice cream should age for at least 24 hours, but none of our ice cream ever lasted that long. As soon as feasibly possible, we would be dipping it out and savoring the lovely flavor of the dessert. Timing was important since we didn't have freezers. The ice cream would be started in enough time to be finished about half an hour before dinner. After dinner, the ice cream would be sufficiently aged to serve.

strawberry_pie

strawberry pie

from The Amish Cook at Home

Photography by Betsy Blanton

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History of the Strawberry

Why are these lovely little jewels given such a common name as 'Strawberry?' Well, like all things that have been around for a while, there is some doubt about the surety of the name's origin.

At first consideration, one would assume that the name comes from the fact that commercially grown berries are, in fact, grown in beds covered with straw. This is done to keep down weeds, preserve moisture in the soil, and keep the berries clean for picking. However, in all my years of gathering wild strawberries I can honestly say that not one time did I ever find them naturally growing in a pile of straw, not even in a pile of dried grass. Therefore, this is not where the name springs from.

It seems likely that the name comes from the practice the strawberry plant has of sending out runners in all directions. At certain points along a runner, roots are sent into the ground and a new plant grows from those roots. In that way, the plant spreads itself. A strawberry has about 200 tiny seeds but they seem to have little to do with the spread of the plant itself.

While it has been proven that under exact conditions these seeds will, indeed, sprout and grow, the plant, for some reason, seems to have rejected this as the main way of propagation. Thus, the plant could be said to have 'strewn' runners and plants all over. So the name probably derived from the Anglo-Saxon verb for 'strew'(meaning to spread around) which was streabergen(Strea means 'strew' and Bergen for berry or fruit) and thence to streberie, straiberie, strauberie, straubery, strauberry, and finally, 'strawberry', the word which we use today.

Strawberries have been around for a long time. They were known to exist in Italy as far back as 234 BC. The Greeks, who had a taboo against eating anything red, including strawberries, also knew them. Wild strawberries abounded in ancient Rome and are mentioned in the writings of Virgil, Ovid, and Pliny the Elder. History indicates the first known cultivation of these berries began sometime in the Middle Ages. However, strawberries grow nearly everywhere in the world and it is known that the American Indians were cultivating them as early as the 1600s and probably before. The Indians used them for making bread, beverages, and in soup. It has been said that it was from a Native-American concoction of strawberries, cornmeal and ground acorn nuts that early settlers got the idea of making strawberry shortcake.

The strawberry of early times, and often portrayed in the Gothic Art of the middle ages is the wild, or woods, strawberry. The Romans, Europeans, and the Indians considered strawberries medicinal and, yet, during the middle ages and later times, pregnant women avoided the little berry for fear that eating or touching one would cause their children to be born with strawberry shaped birthmarks.

Many Indian tribes, the best known being the Iroquois, transplanted the little plants from the woods and cultivated them in beds. Making them, along with corn, one of the earliest farmed foods.

American wild strawberries, Fragaria virginiana, are somewhat larger than their wild European cousins, known as Alpine berries. Strawberries, when ripe, generally come in a lively color of red, but there are also a yellowish and a white variety. Wild strawberries are small and tend to set fruit only once during a season, that of summer, usually during the month of June. The wild strawberry had long been cultivated in Europe, and by the Indians, but the large fruited berry we know and love today originated in Europe in the 18th century.

In the 1600s the larger American Wild Strawberry was sent to France for crossbreeding with the European Strawberry.

It happened that a French spy, named Captain Amede Frezier, was observing Spanish strongholds on the west coast of South America when he discovered the giant-fruited Chilean wild strawberry, fragaria chiloensis, that South American Indians had been cultivating as long as their history could be remembered. Captain Frezier gathered a few of these plants and brought them back to France. He was not believed when he said the fruit of these plants were the size of large walnuts and he also could not prove it because, unfortunately, all of the plants he had brought with him were female. In order to get them to produce fruit, they were deliberately crossed with the American Wild Strawberry and the end result was the large strawberry, Fragaria ananassa, also called the Pineapple Strawberry. Today, the French word for Strawberry is 'Fraiser' in honor of the Captain.

But an English horticulturist, Thomas Andrew Knight, became the first person to practice large-scale, controlled and systematic strawberry breeding and his work led to the large, delicious berries we know today. Commercial strawberry growing flourished in the 1800s in America and the earliest famous grower and breeder of this continent was Charles M. Covey of Cambridge, Massachusetts, a nurseryman and publisher of a horticultural magazine. He was the first American to produce a strawberry cross. In 1851, a New Yorker by the name of James Wilson produced a strawberry variety that caused commercial production to jump from a few hundred acres to over 100,000 acres within 20 to 30 years! Today Strawberries are the most popular and most sold and cultivated berry in the country and are grown in every state of the union. Wild strawberries produce their fruits only in June/July. Today, commercially produced strawberries come in two types: those known as 'June Bearers' and those known as 'Everbearing', and the names are rather self-explanatory. Everbearing plants bear from early spring throughout the entire growing season while the June Bearers, like their wild ancestors, set fruit only in the summer month of June or, sometimes, July. Most winter and spring crops come from Florida and the Gulf and southeastern states, but 80% of all strawberries are grown in California, a production of about 1 billion pounds per year, or an average of about 21 tons of strawberries per acre! top of page

Some strawberry facts that you may or may not wish to know:

Strawberries are the only known fruit to have their seeds on the outside, with an average of 200 seeds per fruit.

British Royalty loved strawberries. Princess Mary, King Henry VIII's daughter, loved them so much that a basketful was always presented to her when she visited.

American Indians were already cultivating and eating strawberries when the colonists arrived. The crushed berries were mixed with cornmeal and made into bread. After trying this bread, colonists developed their own version, which we today know as strawberry shortcake.

The word 'strawberry' did not exist in this spelling until 1538.

The Strawberry was a symbol for the goddess Venus because of its color and its unique heart shape.

At one time, the French people considered the strawberry to be an aphrodisiac and traditionally served a strawberry soup to newlyweds.

Ann Boleyn, second wife of Henry VIII, had a strawberry shaped birthmark on her neck.

The Romans thought strawberries medicinal while the Greeks declared them 'taboo.'

To symbolize perfection and righteousness, medieval stonemasons carved strawberry designs on altars and around pillars in churches and cathedrals. In modern cemeteries, you can see this influence on tombstones.

Besides runners, the distribution of wild strawberries is aided by being sown by birds. When the little dudes eat the berries, the seeds pass through intact.

Under the right conditions, strawberry seeds will germinate and grow and they seem to respond more to light conditions than to moisture and need no dirt cover to grow.

The strawberry, besides being as red as a rose, is actually a member of the rose family.

Strawberries, because of their red color and heart shape, have always been associated in some way with romance. One legend says that if you break a double strawberry in half and share it with a member of the opposite sex, you will fall in love with each other. Another version of the same legend does not specify 'double', any strawberries will do.

By weight, strawberries contain more vitamin C than oranges.

When measuring strawberries:
1-1/2 pounds = 2 pints or 1 quart
1 small basket = 1 pint
1 pint = 3 1/2 cups whole berries
1 pint = 2 1/2 cups sliced berries
1 pint = 1 2/3 cups pureed berries
1 cup = about 4 ounces

 

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