Destined to be a classic, The River Cottage Meat Book belongs in every library, and you should run, not walk, to find a copy. This astounding book is so thorough, so informative, so honest, its recipes so perfect, that we would elect it as one of the few books to bring if we were stranded on a desert island.
Author Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is a renowned British chef, broadcaster and writer. While all those skills are evident in the book, Fearnley-Whittingstall is also a farmer and an eloquent campaigner for good food that is produced in a healthy manner. Fearnley-Whittingstall states the premise of his book quite simply: "This entire book is based on the argument that meat should be something precious, always to be savored, never to be squandered. " He continues, "The first (thing) is to know from the outset that you have in your hands the very best raw materials. The second is to have the knowledge and skills to use them well."
By an even cursory read of The River Cottage Meat Book, you will learn everything you need to know to create those perfect meat dishes.
A very large book of over 500 pages, the author is exhaustive in his analysis of every aspect of buying, storing and cooking meat, but his passion makes theory exhilarating to read, and the thought of fearlessly cooking all forms of meat is an inspiration to the cook.
The River Cottage Meat Book has two main sections. Part one is titled "Understanding Meat" and Part Two is called "Cooking Meat." Nothing is ignored in either section. For example, In the first he discusses marbling (yes, it's good), hanging meat to age it for tenderness, the paradox of wet meat becoming dry meat and why it makes a difference. He discusses each of the main meats that we eat, from beef through poultry, but including game and offal, as well as every part of the animal from trotters to tails. He discusses meat husbandry, speaking of our relationship to animals, affording them such respect and dignity that what he calls our symbiotic relationship with the animals we eat becomes almost spiritual. Quite naturally, Fearnley-Whittingstall knows the urgency of treating these animals properly, of not injecting them with hormones and antibiotics, and of treating them in a humane fashion.
Part two contains the recipes and the techniques for the methods of cooking the meats. Included are roasting, slow cooking such as stews and braises, fast cooking such as frying, stir frying and pan grilling. He moves on to outdoor and wood-fired cooking, as well as preserving and processing meat - such as sausages, pâtés, and terrines. He includes a section called meat thrift for stock, soups, and leftovers, and even has organized a few menus for such events as holidays, picnics, dining for two, feeding a crowd and one-pot wonders, to name a few.
The recipes reflect Fearnley-Whittingstall's career as a chef and he gives foolproof recipes for 150 meat classics - roast pork with perfect crackling, pot-au-feu, glazed baked ham, oxtail with rich red wine sauce, bollito misto, wiener schnitzel, Irish stew, roast grouse with trimmings, cassoulet, jerk chicken, curried goat and chili con carne, just to name a few. Seeming unable to rest until he has perfected everything, the author includes what he calls 'the trimmings.' Here you will find recipes for the accompaniments to meat: salsas, marinades, dumplings, veggies, sauces, even a home-made tortilla recipe.
At the conclusion to the book, the publisher, Ten Speed Press has added notes to the U.S. Edition that explain, among other things, many USDA regulations. This is a rich section and we applaud the publisher for the care and concern that they have given to so important a book. This is beyond the call of duty and reflects the quality of the publisher, a quality we have previously noted in the consistent excellence of their many fine cookbooks.
About the author: As mentioned above Hugh is a renowned British chef, broadcaster, writer, farmer, educator, and campaigner for real food. He has written eight books. His River Cottage farm is in Devon, England.
©
